Diamonds

Buying a diamond engagement ring is part of a much larger decision that goes far beyond jewelry, tradition, or money. The very fact that you're even considering such a commitment indicates that you've already made quite a journey.

Step 1: Establish Your Budget
Spend some time exploring your diamond ring options. This time is for looking, seeing what's out there. Setting YOUR standards. Once familiar with the options, establish your budget based on your income, what you feel comfortable spending, and the type and grade of diamond you wish to purchase.

diamond buying guide point Your love cannot be measured by how much money you spend on an engagement ring. This is no time to be stingy or, shall we say it, cheap, but it's also no time for bankruptcy.

And once you've established your budget, don't allow a jeweler to talk you into going drastically over or going drastically under (for a supposedly "great deal") your budget.

Your engagement ring budget will be based on not only your income, but also your knowledge of diamonds (the "four Cs", certification, shapes -- see below), so you'll have a very good idea of both what you can afford and want to spend. If you've done your homework, there shouldn't be any big surprises at the checkout counter.

Step 2: Learn About Diamonds
To begin shopping for a diamond, you need to understand the four Cs of diamond evaluation:

* Carat
* Color
* Clarity
* Cut

By understanding these qualities you can determine which traits are most important to you, and you can find a balance between them that best suits your needs. To learn more about the four Cs of diamonds, visit our Diamond Buying Guide.

Once you understand the "Four Cs," review the page on Diamond Certificates. Diamond certificates are the "blueprint" of the diamond and and certify the various grades (cut, color, clarity), carat weight, and additional aspects of the diamond (such as shape). Not all certificates are created equal -- be sure to read this section to know that the certificate you receive is worth more than the paper it's written on.

Additionally, be sure to review the different diamond shapes that are available.

Step 3: Learn About Ring Settings
The "setting" is what you probably think of as the "ring" portion -- the band, accent stones, and the prongs. Everything except the center diamond. Settings come in a variety of metals and styles. Most diamond engagement rings are set in gold (yellow, white, or "two-toned", and various karats) or platinum.

When selecting a gold band (yellow or white), we recommend 18K. That said, lovely quality diamond engagement rings can also feature 14K.

We strongly recommend against karatage lower than 14K.

* Mondera (our "Editor's Pick" of online diamond jewelry stores) carries no less than 18K gold settings.

* Szul carries a small, but intriguing collection of gold bands (yellow, white, two-toned, 14K) featuring carved and etched designs.

Settings may also feature smaller diamonds or gemstones as "accent stones." Popular accent gemstones include: diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, tanzanite, and more.

traditional solitaire diamond accents gemstone accents
Traditional Solitaire Diamond Accents Gemstone Accents

diamond buying guide point Pictured rings were created using Mondera's (a fine diamond jeweler) online "create your own diamond engagement ring" tool. Try it out for yourself -- there's no charge for looking.

To learn more about platinum, gold, and gold karats, read our Precious Metals Guide.

Step 4: Design Your Ring
diamond engagement rings First, don't be surprised when you visit the better online Diamond Jewelry Stores and discover that they display the engagement ring setting without a center diamond. At these stores, you select both the setting and the diamond (as opposed to a "pre-set" ring where someone else has already chosen the (uncertified) diamond for you).

diamond engagement rings diamond engagement rings diamond engagement rings
Round Brilliant Princess Pear Shape
Pictured rings were created using Mondera's (a fine diamond jeweler) online "create your own diamond engagement ring" tool.

There are two basic parts to every diamond engagement ring: the Setting and the Center Diamond. The "setting" is the "ring" portion -- the band, accent stones, and the prongs.

When designing your own ring, which one do you select first -- the setting or the center diamond? Well, that depends.

If either you or the recipient has a heart set on a "princess cut" diamond, you better start with the diamond selection. Not all settings can accomodate all diamond shapes and sizes, so if you already have an idea what the center diamond will look like, start there.

On the other hand, if either of you have a heart set on a platinum setting, start there and review the platinum options (which will include traditional plain bands, bands with accent diamonds, and bands with colored accent gemstones).

Diamond Shapes

Yes and no. Diamonds are natural crystals of varying size and shape formed in the earth over millions of years. The traditional round brilliant diamond, though the most popular diamond shape of all, is hardly the whole story.

By the diamond cutter's art these crystals are carved into gems of spectacular and whimsical beauty. A cutter's skill will produce a diamond of the greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most brilliance.

Round Brilliant Diamonds
This shape has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.

Oval Diamonds
An even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small hands or short fingers. Its elongated shape gives a flattering illusion of length to the hand. Learn more about Oval Diamonds

Marquise Diamonds
An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is gorgeous when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds.

Pear Shaped Diamonds
A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. It also belongs to that category of diamond whose design most complements a hand with small or average-length fingers. It is particularly beautiful for pendants or earrings. Learn more about Pear Shaped Diamonds

Heart Shaped Diamonds
This ultimate symbol of romance is essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top. The skill of the cutter determines the beauty of the cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline. Learn more about the Heart Shaped Diamond

Emerald Cut Diamond
This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. It is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. Since inclusions and inferior color are more pronounced in this particular cut, take pains to select a stone of superior clarity and color. Learn more about the Emerald Cut Diamond

Princess Cut Diamond
This is a square or rectangular cut with numerous sparkling facets. It is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. Flattering to a hand with long fingers, it is often embellished with triangular stones at its sides. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon. Learn more about the Princess Cut Diamond

trilliant" width="55" align="left" border="0" height="55"> Trilliant Diamonds
This is a spectacular wedge of brittle fire. First developed in Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.

Radiant Cut Diamonds
This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon. Learn more about the Radiant Cut Diamond

Cushion Cut Diamond
An antique style of cut that looks like a cross between an Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut. Learn more about the Cushion Cut Diamond

Diamond Clarity

For clarity grades F through SI, inclusions (internal flaws) are NOT visible to the naked eye.

When we speak of a diamond's clarity, we are referring to the presence of identifying characteristics on (blemishes) and within (inclusions) the stone.

If you think about the incredible amount of pressure it takes to create a diamond and the fact that natural diamonds are not grown in a sterile laboratory, it's no surprise that most diamonds have flaws.

Basically there are two types of flaws: inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions refer to internal flaws and blemishes refer to surface flaws. However, in the diamond grades listed below, you'll note that none of the grades include the term "blemish" -- for the purposes of grading diamonds, all flaws are called "inclusions."

Inclusions include flaws such as air bubbles, cracks, and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond. Blemishes include scratches, pits, and chips. Some blemishes occur during the cutting processes (most often at the girdle). Diamonds with no or few inclusions and blemishes are more highly valued than those with less clarity because they are rarer.

How are diamonds graded for clarity?
Diamonds are graded for clarity under 10x loupe magnification. Grades range from Flawless (diamonds which are completely free of blemishes and inclusions), to Included 3 (diamonds which possess large, heavy blemishes and inclusions that are visible to the naked eye).

• F
  Flawless: No internal or external flaws. Extremely rare.
• IF
  Internally Flawless: no internal flaws, but some surface flaws. Very rare.
• VVS1-VVS2
  Very Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification by a trained gemologist.
• VS1-VS2
  Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions seen only with difficulty under 10x magnification.
• SI1-SI2
  Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions more easily detected under 10x magnification.

  REMEMBER: For grades F through SI, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

• I1-I2-I3
  Included (three grades). Inclusions visible under 10x magnification AS WELL AS to the human eye. We do not recommend buying diamonds in any of these grades.

F-IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1-VS2	SI1-SI2	I1-I2-I3

While the presence of these clarity characteristics (inclusions and blemishes) do lower the clarity grade of a diamond, they can also be viewed as proof of a diamond's identity. GIA certificates include what is known as a "plot" of a diamond's inclusions -- think of it as a "diamond fingerprint." Since no two diamonds are exactly the same, comparing the uniqueness of your diamond's clarity characteristics with the plot provided on the diamond certificate offers assurance that the diamond you pay for is the same diamond you receive.

Which Clarity Grade Should I Choose?
While Flawless diamonds are the rarest, a diamond does not have to be flawless to be stunning.

In fact, until you drop to the "I" grade, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

Diamonds with VVS and VS grades are excellent choices for both value and appearance.

More affordable (and still a great choice) are those diamonds which gemologists call "eye-clean" - diamonds with no inclusions visible to the naked eye. These diamonds are SI1 and SI2 and unless the recipient carries a 10X loupe (a strong jewelry magnifying glass), she won't see the inclusions.

As to I1-I3? Maybe when there's a diamond grade that's defined as "you can see the flaws just by looking at the diamond," nothing more needs to be said.

Okay, to be "fair" to I1-I3 -- not everyone notices visible flaws in a diamond. And not all "visible" flaws are "equally" visible -- think about the difference between dripping mustard on a starched white dress shirt and dripping mustard on a brightly-colored Hawaiian shirt (not that we think you have a lot of mustard dripping experience). Obviously, one shows up a lot more than the other -- visible diamond flaws are like that.

But if you choose to buy an I1-I3 diamond (which we don't really recommend), know that some people will look at it and immediately see the flaws -- and not just experienced jewelers.

• Read more about the Four Cs of diamonds...

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