Sunday, July 5, 2009
Buying a diamond engagement ring is part of a much larger decision that goes far beyond jewelry, tradition, or money. The very fact that you're even considering such a commitment indicates that you've already made quite a journey.
Step 1: Establish Your Budget
Spend some time exploring your diamond ring options. This time is for looking, seeing what's out there. Setting YOUR standards. Once familiar with the options, establish your budget based on your income, what you feel comfortable spending, and the type and grade of diamond you wish to purchase.
diamond buying guide point Your love cannot be measured by how much money you spend on an engagement ring. This is no time to be stingy or, shall we say it, cheap, but it's also no time for bankruptcy.
And once you've established your budget, don't allow a jeweler to talk you into going drastically over or going drastically under (for a supposedly "great deal") your budget.
Your engagement ring budget will be based on not only your income, but also your knowledge of diamonds (the "four Cs", certification, shapes -- see below), so you'll have a very good idea of both what you can afford and want to spend. If you've done your homework, there shouldn't be any big surprises at the checkout counter.
Step 2: Learn About Diamonds
To begin shopping for a diamond, you need to understand the four Cs of diamond evaluation:
* Carat
* Color
* Clarity
* Cut
By understanding these qualities you can determine which traits are most important to you, and you can find a balance between them that best suits your needs. To learn more about the four Cs of diamonds, visit our Diamond Buying Guide.
Once you understand the "Four Cs," review the page on Diamond Certificates. Diamond certificates are the "blueprint" of the diamond and and certify the various grades (cut, color, clarity), carat weight, and additional aspects of the diamond (such as shape). Not all certificates are created equal -- be sure to read this section to know that the certificate you receive is worth more than the paper it's written on.
Additionally, be sure to review the different diamond shapes that are available.
Step 3: Learn About Ring Settings
The "setting" is what you probably think of as the "ring" portion -- the band, accent stones, and the prongs. Everything except the center diamond. Settings come in a variety of metals and styles. Most diamond engagement rings are set in gold (yellow, white, or "two-toned", and various karats) or platinum.
When selecting a gold band (yellow or white), we recommend 18K. That said, lovely quality diamond engagement rings can also feature 14K.
We strongly recommend against karatage lower than 14K.
* Mondera (our "Editor's Pick" of online diamond jewelry stores) carries no less than 18K gold settings.
* Szul carries a small, but intriguing collection of gold bands (yellow, white, two-toned, 14K) featuring carved and etched designs.
Settings may also feature smaller diamonds or gemstones as "accent stones." Popular accent gemstones include: diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, tanzanite, and more.
traditional solitaire diamond accents gemstone accents
Traditional Solitaire Diamond Accents Gemstone Accents
diamond buying guide point Pictured rings were created using Mondera's (a fine diamond jeweler) online "create your own diamond engagement ring" tool. Try it out for yourself -- there's no charge for looking.
To learn more about platinum, gold, and gold karats, read our Precious Metals Guide.
Step 4: Design Your Ring
diamond engagement rings First, don't be surprised when you visit the better online Diamond Jewelry Stores and discover that they display the engagement ring setting without a center diamond. At these stores, you select both the setting and the diamond (as opposed to a "pre-set" ring where someone else has already chosen the (uncertified) diamond for you).
diamond engagement rings diamond engagement rings diamond engagement rings
Round Brilliant Princess Pear Shape
Pictured rings were created using Mondera's (a fine diamond jeweler) online "create your own diamond engagement ring" tool.
There are two basic parts to every diamond engagement ring: the Setting and the Center Diamond. The "setting" is the "ring" portion -- the band, accent stones, and the prongs.
When designing your own ring, which one do you select first -- the setting or the center diamond? Well, that depends.
If either you or the recipient has a heart set on a "princess cut" diamond, you better start with the diamond selection. Not all settings can accomodate all diamond shapes and sizes, so if you already have an idea what the center diamond will look like, start there.
On the other hand, if either of you have a heart set on a platinum setting, start there and review the platinum options (which will include traditional plain bands, bands with accent diamonds, and bands with colored accent gemstones).
Diamond Shapes
The classic diamond is, to most people, a round gem of sparkling white brilliance with a kaleidoscope of dazzling facets to entice the eye.Yes and no. Diamonds are natural crystals of varying size and shape formed in the earth over millions of years. The traditional round brilliant diamond, though the most popular diamond shape of all, is hardly the whole story.
By the diamond cutter's art these crystals are carved into gems of spectacular and whimsical beauty. A cutter's skill will produce a diamond of the greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most brilliance.
This shape has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.
An even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small hands or short fingers. Its elongated shape gives a flattering illusion of length to the hand. Learn more about Oval Diamonds
An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is gorgeous when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds.
A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. It also belongs to that category of diamond whose design most complements a hand with small or average-length fingers. It is particularly beautiful for pendants or earrings. Learn more about Pear Shaped Diamonds
This ultimate symbol of romance is essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top. The skill of the cutter determines the beauty of the cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline. Learn more about the Heart Shaped Diamond
This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. It is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. Since inclusions and inferior color are more pronounced in this particular cut, take pains to select a stone of superior clarity and color. Learn more about the Emerald Cut Diamond
This is a square or rectangular cut with numerous sparkling facets. It is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. Flattering to a hand with long fingers, it is often embellished with triangular stones at its sides. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon. Learn more about the Princess Cut Diamond
This is a spectacular wedge of brittle fire. First developed in Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.
This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon. Learn more about the Radiant Cut Diamond
An antique style of cut that looks like a cross between an Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut. Learn more about the Cushion Cut Diamond
Diamond Clarity
 For clarity grades F through SI, inclusions (internal flaws) are NOT visible to the naked eye. |
When we speak of a diamond's clarity, we are referring to the presence of identifying characteristics on (blemishes) and within (inclusions) the stone.
If you think about the incredible amount of pressure it takes to create a diamond and the fact that natural diamonds are not grown in a sterile laboratory, it's no surprise that most diamonds have flaws.
Basically there are two types of flaws: inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions refer to internal flaws and blemishes refer to surface flaws. However, in the diamond grades listed below, you'll note that none of the grades include the term "blemish" -- for the purposes of grading diamonds, all flaws are called "inclusions."
Inclusions include flaws such as air bubbles, cracks, and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond. Blemishes include scratches, pits, and chips. Some blemishes occur during the cutting processes (most often at the girdle). Diamonds with no or few inclusions and blemishes are more highly valued than those with less clarity because they are rarer.
How are diamonds graded for clarity?
Diamonds are graded for clarity under 10x loupe magnification. Grades range from Flawless (diamonds which are completely free of blemishes and inclusions), to Included 3 (diamonds which possess large, heavy blemishes and inclusions that are visible to the naked eye).
- F
Flawless: No internal or external flaws. Extremely rare. - IF
Internally Flawless: no internal flaws, but some surface flaws. Very rare. - VVS1-VVS2
Very Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification by a trained gemologist. - VS1-VS2
Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions seen only with difficulty under 10x magnification. - SI1-SI2
Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions more easily detected under 10x magnification. - I1-I2-I3
Included (three grades). Inclusions visible under 10x magnification AS WELL AS to the human eye. We do not recommend buying diamonds in any of these grades.
 |  |  |  |  |
| F-IF | VVS1-VVS2 | VS1-VS2 | SI1-SI2 | I1-I2-I3 |
While the presence of these clarity characteristics (inclusions and blemishes) do lower the clarity grade of a diamond, they can also be viewed as proof of a diamond's identity. GIA certificates include what is known as a "plot" of a diamond's inclusions -- think of it as a "diamond fingerprint." Since no two diamonds are exactly the same, comparing the uniqueness of your diamond's clarity characteristics with the plot provided on the diamond certificate offers assurance that the diamond you pay for is the same diamond you receive.
Which Clarity Grade Should I Choose?
While Flawless diamonds are the rarest, a diamond does not have to be flawless to be stunning.
In fact, until you drop to the "I" grade, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.
Diamonds with VVS and VS grades are excellent choices for both value and appearance.
More affordable (and still a great choice) are those diamonds which gemologists call "eye-clean" - diamonds with no inclusions visible to the naked eye. These diamonds are SI1 and SI2 and unless the recipient carries a 10X loupe (a strong jewelry magnifying glass), she won't see the inclusions.
As to I1-I3? Maybe when there's a diamond grade that's defined as "you can see the flaws just by looking at the diamond," nothing more needs to be said.
Okay, to be "fair" to I1-I3 -- not everyone notices visible flaws in a diamond. And not all "visible" flaws are "equally" visible -- think about the difference between dripping mustard on a starched white dress shirt and dripping mustard on a brightly-colored Hawaiian shirt (not that we think you have a lot of mustard dripping experience). Obviously, one shows up a lot more than the other -- visible diamond flaws are like that.
But if you choose to buy an I1-I3 diamond (which we don't really recommend), know that some people will look at it and immediately see the flaws -- and not just experienced jewelers.
Monday, June 29, 2009
Friday, June 26, 2009
How to Pick a Diamond : Diamond Jewelry Channel Settings
0 comments Posted by Rushd Ali Babar at 12:43 PMSunday, May 31, 2009
The Wins Connoisseur Collection is comprised of some of the most Rare and Unique diamonds in the World. Even when other firms have not been able to deliver, the Wins, through the strength of their connections, have consistently been able to deliver anything from large orders of D flawless stones to rare natural fancy coloured pink 17 carat diamonds, and even the 88 carat Black Star of Africa. The Wins remain one of the few Private Diamantaire Elite, who since the mid-1800’s, have been the connoisseurs choice for rare and unique diamonds
diamond weighing 5.66 carats graded by GIA as Fancy Light Pink, VS2 clarity. The seller, diamondareforever, wanted $545,000 for the opening bid and said that it had been appraised for $1,360,000. The stone's depth is 47.6% and the table is 66%. The stone was listed as having no bids, but at the same time it said "High Bidder: User ID kept private".
A light yellow pear-shaped stellar brilliant cut weighing 15.23 carats, offered by seller Curtis J Tanney in late-September of 2003. A good photo to show scale, with a dime and a thumb. :) The seller wanted $65,000 for the opening bid, no reserve. Not sure what the color and clarity grades are. The auction heading was appropriately and accurately titled "Natural Cape Old Miners 15.23 ct Diamond Ring". This stone was cut long ago, probably between 1870 and 1900.
This Fancy Intense Pink diamond appeared on Ebay on July 18th, 2003, offered by Ucdealshere. The stone weighs 0.89 carats and Good grades for both Polish and Symmetry, VS1 clarity, Medium Blue fluorescence and even color distribution. The side oval brilliants total 0.74 carats and are VS1, E-color. This is a beautiful ring, in my opinion. The center stone seems deeper in saturation than just Fancy Intense, more like Fancy Vivid or Fancy Vivid Purplish-Pink. The seller wanted $72,000 for the opening bid.
This stone appeared on Ebay in June of 2003, offered by seller aanti31565@aol.com. It sold! The ending bid was $52,000. The diamond is G-color, VVS2 clarity, polish was graded as Very Good and symmetry as Good. No fluorescence. The ring the stone is set in is 14K white gold and has an expanding shank. The stone measures 10.28 × 8.19 × 5.13 mm.
A 31.04-carat S to T-color, VS2 round brilliant that appeared on Ebay on May 1st, 2003. The seller had it set at the Buy It Now option only. They wanted $212,500 for it. There was an interesting note on the GIA certificate about the stone's crown...
A pear-shaped Fancy Deep Brown-Pink diamond weighing 9.44 carats, set in a ring. The stone is HPHT processed. The ring was offered by fortunejewelry18. They want $74,000 for the opening bid, and even though when I saw the auction it said there were zero bids so far, there was also a note that said it was a private auction and that the bidder's identity was protected. This is the stone's GIA certificate. It mentions the HPHT processing
A 1.99-carat Fancy Orangy-Pink pear shape. This diamond appeared on Ebay on February 7th, 2003. The seller, trbian, wanted $35,000 for the opening bid. There was also a GIA certificate listed in the auction, but it was for color only. The stone measures 11.43 × 7.14 × 3.78 mm.
This 5.36-carat Fancy Pink cushion appeared on Ebay on December 27th, 2002. The seller wanted $460,000 for the opening bid. The stone has a clarity of SI1. Although in the photo their color appears more saturated, the side trilliant cut diamonds are actually Fancy Yellow. The diamond's cut is uncommon to say the least - a cushion shape with a step-cut crown and brilliant-cut pavilion. The result is, for lack of better description, a radiant cut with a cushion outline. When I saw the GIA sheet, above, I was surprised at how simple the design was, with 17 facets on the crown and 28 on the pavilion. The Pumpkin Diamond, a famous Fancy Vivid Orange diamond owned by Harry Winston, is said to be cut in this same style. This is one of the finest pink diamond's I've seen appear on Ebay. Sometime in mid-2002 I saw an orangey-pink cushion weighing about 22 carats on Ebay, listed as being Internally Flawless. I don't think this section of my website was opened yet or I would have posted a photo of the diamond here. Another thing I remember was the seller wanted what I thought was a low figure for the opening bid, being around $1 million..
A 2.49-carat cushion-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow, VS1 clarity diamond offered by Diamonds by Lauren. The ring shown is platinum and 18K yellow gold. Diamonds by L. wants $30,000 for the opening bid.
An SI-2, Fancy Vivid Yellow oval diamond from Diamonds By Lauren. They wanted $28,000 for the opening bid. I just noticed I never listed the weight of this stone when I originally added it to this site...probably over 1.50 carats, though. :)
2.81-carat cushion modified brilliant was offered by Diamonds by Lauren on Ebay on October 16th, 2002, bidding to start at $17,000. By the 22nd, when I saw it, it had one bid and was up to $21,500. This is a beautiful stone. I wish more sellers on Ebay offered cushion shaped diamonds. This diamond was graded as Fancy Intense Yellow, VS2 clarity, Polish and Symmetry both graded as Good. Under the Comments section of the GIA certificate it said "Crown angles are greater than 40 degrees." This is fairly steep. Nonetheless it doesn't affect the stone's appearence.
A platinum pear-shaped diamond ring from jewelry47. The center stone weighs 14.60 carats, is M-color, VS1 clarity. The baguettes on the side weigh 0.35 carats each, making a total of 15.30 carats for the whole ring. Jewelry47 says the ring was appraised at $250,000. They want $127,000 for the opening bid. Jewelry47 seems to be pretty new, or at least I haven't been seeing their stuff on Ebay till recently. They carry some of the largest diamonds on the site.
10.97-carat Asscher cut diamond appeared on Ebay. The seller wanted $100,000 for the opening bid. The stone's clarity was VS-2 and the color grade was "N", slightly yellow. :) Here is what they had to say about it: The ring’s value was stated to be $500,000 on NBC’s The Today Show prior to the Oscars. This exaggerated price was for shock value, and there are certainly some stores that might try to sell the ring at that inflated price. At Mednikow, this ring would sell for a fair price of $125,000.
Celebrity Quotient: Stockard Channing, in character as the First Lady on the hit show The West Wing wore this exact ring to her character’s birthday party in a recent episode. This same ring also traveled to the 2002 Oscars, adorning the finger of Sharon Stone. More recently, Jane Fonda has worn this ring to recent GCAPP (Georgia Campaign for Adolescent Pregnancy Prevention) events.
With the current resurgence in popularity of things antique, the Royal Asscher has been seen quite often in the recent past on the fingers and ears of celebrities and fashion-forward people. Sarah Jessica Parker received a Royal Asscher diamond as an engagement ring on the hit TV show Sex in the City, the Asscher cut is also the engagement ring choice of Kate Hudson, Courtney Thorne-Smith and Reese Witherspoon.
A very unusual Fancy Purplish-Red diamond weighing 0.34 carats. This stone appeared on Ebay in May of 2002. Bidding started at $1000. When I saw the auction, it had 11 bids and was up to $4150. Here is what the seller had to say about it: "Most people have never seen a Natural Red Diamond, most diamond dealers have never seen a red diamond. In fact their occurrence in nature is so rare that a leading specialist in the field of Colored Diamonds from the Geological Laboratory of America recently told me that GIA has issued certificates for red Diamonds less than 24 times, and of the 24 known to exist, over half of those certed weigh less than ½ of a carat in weight. This diamond is a gorgeous color, with a GIA certificate stating that the diamond is a Fancy Purplish Red, 0.34 carats, Oval Shape, color of origin Natural. If you are looking for the truly unique, and rarest of the rare in diamonds, this is it, it is quality not quantity. If you want a Red Diamond the worlds truly rarest gem specimen, This is an authentic collectors item, rarest of rare, very exotic hard to find piece. Natural Color, Natural Diamond." One of the most famous red diamonds is the Hancock Red Diamond, a stone that sold at auction in the late-1980's for $880,000 — and weighed only 0.95 carats. That comes to about $926,000 per-carat.
A pair of natural Fancy Intense Brownish-Orange diamonds offered
on Ebay in May, 2002, by seller rottierick. The stones were
graded as having VS-2 clarity, a weight of 0.63 carats, and a cut grade
of Good. The seller wanted $1899 for the opening bid, but had the
Buy It Now option for $2599.
This 16.29-carat round diamond appeared on Ebay in April of 2002.
Its clarity was IF (Internally Flawless) and its color was G (near
colorless). The stone measured 16.36 × 16.57 × 9.95 mm, and had a
fluorescence grade of Medium Blue. The polish and symmetry were both
graded as Very Good. The seller wanted $380,000 for the opening bid,
and said the stone was appraised at $510,000
A natural Fancy Orangey-Pink diamond, offered by Diamonds By Lauren on Ebay.
The stone weighs 1.49 carats. "I don't notice any orange- but the GIA color
origin report indicates as Fancy Orangey-Pink. The GIA certificate is for color,
measurements, and shape. The clarity is not listed on this type of certificate.
In this case, the oval diamond is SI2." The diamonds surrounding the pink
oval are F-G in color (basically colorless), VS in clarity, and premium cut.
Diamonds by Lauren wants $40,000 for the opening bid. Unusual colors like this
will always boost a stone's price significantly, even if the stone isn't very large
A 9.78-carat, D-color, VS-2 clarity pear shape. No fluorescence. The stone seems almost triangular, like a spear or arrowhead.
A good size Old Mine Cut! Weighing 2.60 carats, VS1 clarity and J/K color. The setting is platinum,
and unique because the stone is bezel-set and not prong-set. It reminds me of the Regent Diamond
fancy yellow cushion shaped diamond weighing 2 carats. The seller says
"VVS quality", so I am not sure how close that is. Cushion shaped diamonds
are unsual in this modern age. They aren't seen in jewelry very often. Wholesale Diamonds & Gems wants $8,200 for the opening bid
Diamonds By Lauren has had this stone up for auction for about a year
I believe. They want $50,000 for the opening bid. It remains the one of the finest
pink diamonds I have seen on Ebay, with pink color you can actually SEE,
and has a weight of 1.51 carats. The clarity is SI-2.
This 4.12-carat pear shaped stone Diamonds By Lauren had up at auction,
starting at $17,000. K-color, SI1 clarity and no fluorescence. Diamonds
by Lauren and Stargate Gems are two of my favorite diamond dealers on
Ebay -- they always have something interesting to look at.
This fancy yellow diamond had a relatively vague description as follows: "The Monea 124-carat fancy yellow rough diamond has been fashioned into seven beautiful gem quality diamonds, the largest being this 52-carat intense fancy canary yellow radiant cut fit for your lovely wife, head of state, investor, collector or Queen of Lesotho. Name this diamond after your sweetheart the way Richard Burton did for his lovely wife Liz Taylor. The origin of this rough diamond was South Africa. It has been fashioned into this intense fancy yellow diamond by master diamond cutter Walter V. in Antwerp, Belgium... this gem took 9 months to cut ....we will fly the winner of this bid to Antwerp, Belgium to meet the master diamond cutters and to recieve his or her gem. A fantastic weekend trip on us. So lets get the bidding started at $1.2 million. 'Diamond dealers and millionaires welcome.' 100% satisfaction. All money returned within 7 days if not satisfied." Unfortunately, the seller does not list the clarity of the stone, or a GIA certificate. The stone is radiant cut with a cushion-shaped outline. They did indeed want $1.2 million for the opening bid.
This fancy blue-gray diamond was up for bids starting at $19,514.47.
The stone is only 0.51 carats, but since its color is natural blue, this
makes it MUCH more valuable than an irradiated blue diamond of the same size
